Monday, June 18, 2007

Last from Helsinki, First from Savonlinna

I started this earlier today, but must have pushed the wrong button when I tried to save it, 'cause it's not anywhere to be found. So, try, try again.

As you may remember, Thursday was rainy. Friday started out looking the same, so I took my umbrella. Sure enough, the clouds blew away, and it turned out to be a pretty nice, if windy day.

I took the ferry to the island of Suomenlinna in the harbor. It was fortified by the Swedes as protection against the Russians. But the Russians won anyway. Until the Russians took over in the early 1800's, Helsinki was just an outpost. Guess that's why there's not too much of a historical nature here. The Russians made it the new capital, as it was nearer Russia. Turku had been the capital till then, although Finland was controlled by Sweden. Didn't become independent until 1917, I think. European borders have really changed over the years.

Back to Suomenlinna. It now has about 900 inhabitants. Many commute to Helsinki. Guess the ones who don't work in museums, or the small shipyard. The fortifications are really interesting, to me at least. Sure was a lot of work put into building this place. Now many of the original buildings, warehouses, quarters,etc. are used as apartments. Several related museums, but I didn't visit any. Still was on the island for probably 5 hours.

Stopped by to see the church. Turned out they are preparing for an opera festival, and there was a practice, in costume, going on in the church. I even recorded a bit of it, for what reason I don't know. Quality with my camera can't be very good.

On Saturday, I headed for Savoinlinna bu bus, a 5 hour trip. But a very pleasant one. Good weather, sunny blue sky, pretty white clouds, lots of green trees, plenty of lakes, many boulder outcroppings. The bus driver was a compassionate soul. Stopped to let a mama duck herd her brood across the highway. On the lake thing: Finland makes MN, the land of 10,000 lakes look like a desert.

Once I arrived, I asked the bus driver where the hotel was. He was kind enough to take me with him as he took the bus to it's garage and dropped me off as close as he could. And no problem this time with getting the room. I had it reserved for 2 nites, but have decided to stay an extra two, it's so nice here. Really nice place. There's an an indoor pool and sauna, and a really nice buffet breakfast included.

After I checked in, with all the day-lite there is, I took a walk around town for orientation. This is a great little town, wonderful to relax in. I found the castle, the main attraction here in Savonlinna. The prettiest I've seen. Set on a small island, and reflects beautifully in the lake. Really is quite a sight. The town of Savonlinna sits on a small island at the narrows between two lakes. The hotel is on a smaller island, with access by a foot bridge. There's actually a road at the other end of the hotel's island, but I like to think of my island-bound hotel.

And just off-shore from the hotel is another small island, accessed only by a footbridge. About 1 or 2 KM of main paths, with any number of side trails. I walked around on it for a good two hours. Really gets one back to nature. Several folks were swimming in the lake. I may try it, but not today. It's clouding up, and I'd rather swim in the pool in those conditions.

I did take a tour f the castle yesterday. They have guided tours in 4 languages. You know which one I took. Now that I know the castle somewhat, I think I'll go back and just wander around on my own. Lots there to see. I marvel at the work that was done in Europe so many years ago, with so little in the way of tools and equipment.

Savonlinna has several areas that are pretty much 'the forest primeval', much like the island I described earlier. I hiked another today. Except for the well maintained trails, you'd have no idea that you are so near the center of a town. Until, that is, you get to the point where I heard someone busy with a chain saw. Do I sound like that at home in the spring, with my saw and weed-whacker? Guess so. Sure does take away from the 'back to nature' experience.

I leave here on Wednesday for Kuopio. I'll take the boat cruise I think I mentioned. It's an all day thing, around 10 hours all told, with about 8 stops along the way. Either a very slow boat, or a long trip.

And now the trivia: While enjoying the view of the castle, I came upon a wedding party having photos taken. I heard the bride say something distinctly American, including a reference to CA. So I asked, and she's from San Francisco. Her husband is Finnish. Then the lady who served my supper spoke with no accent either. She was from Chicago, and married a Finn 20 years ago. In Greece. Go Figure.

I've seen no Starbucks here in Scandinavia. Maybe the Scandinavian coffee chains have taken the US position; 'We don't need no stinking Walmarts here in our town' as it relates to coffee.

Eye contact, and greeting strangers on walks is not done here. If I manage to catch someone's eye with the idea of saying something pleasant, they quickly turn away and even look embarrassed. Must not be part of the culture to be a bit forward.

Last, but not least (at last): Anyone who's been to Europe has come across the fact that the first floor is one story up. Not necessarily so in Scandinavia. And that's the problem. Some places the ground floor is one, and some places it's zero. But not all. They are just trying to confuse me. Easily done.

I think that's about it for now. If not, you'll hear about it from either Kuopio or Oulu, the next two stops.

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